Monday, July 11, 2011

Silver Star

Silver Star via Ed's Trail


You really gotta want it to get here but wow what a view virtually the whole hike. This is not my first hike up Silver Star but I have always went up from Grouse Vista, an easy drive but way less scenic hike.


Let's start with the drive....the last 10 miles of this drive are pretty treacherous on a dry day. That said, if you go slow and easy in a four wheel drive you will make it no problem. It is a popular approach, so if you go on a weekend, as we did just follow the others!


The hike begins with brushy switchbacks and beautiful vine maples. Then the wildflowers explode around you (in July). When you break into the open you gain views of Mt St Helens to the North  and soon Mt Adams to the North-East. Eventually you merge with an old Jeep track. Ed's trail peels off about 20 yards along on the left. We took this trail and it wound its way up around the ridge giving great East and South-East views.



 The trail winds up through wildflower choked open meadows surprising with a great postcard view of Mt Hood framed in the snow clad bowl below Silver Star and Little Baldy.


The trail rises up to the jagged rocks at the top of the spine then wraps around North.

 Another surprise awaits in a spectacular natural arch, an arbor through which the trail runs. Traveling a bit further and past a sizeable cave, we were forced to turn back. The trail ascended a steep slope and was covered in snow. Our unpredictable pup would not make this a fun crossing. We decided to backtrack through the arch and take a small game trail up through the low huckleberry shrubs and join the Jeep track on the ridge.

This is a real gradual climb through several deep snow patches to the summit of Silver Star. Here we were able to see Mt Ranier, Mt St Helens, Mt Adams, The Goat Rocks, Mt Hood and Mt Jefferson! What a place for lunch...



Our return trip we stayed with the Jeep trail down the entire ridge. We were surrounded by large jutting outcroppings of rock, flowers of all colors and deep green distant meadows begging to be explored.


Bell Mountain

The Bell Mountain Trail 







This is a trail I have been meaning to do for some time. 



It originates at Moulton Falls Park, a place I have spent many summer days swimming in high school and over the years. The trail actually takes off about a mile down the Murphy Grade Trail. It winds up through the forest and opens to several clearings offering territorial views to Mt St Helens and Silver Star.

Foxglove and butterfly







Small bridges cross the streams and it is a very well maintained trail with all the beautiful flora and fauna we take for granted on the West side of the Cascades.


As this a 5 mile in and out our return trip took us through Moulton Falls Park where a very cold swim awaits the daring...

Metolious

Metolious River Trail


The Metolious River trail is a beautiful walk along a river as cold and clean as a river gets. The hike skirts the river going up one side and back down the other bank for most of the hike. There is a detour around some private property but mostly you are streamside. 





We did this walk with dogs and they loved it. at just around 6 miles, it taxed our new Austrailian Shepherd puppy.



We began our hike at the Lower Bridge Campground. A nice little shaded parking area is on the West side of the bridge. We hiked south along the river. on a gentle slope. The river moves fast and we hiked half a mile before we found a nice calm place for the dogs to cool down.


The river banks were teaming with Monarch butterflies one of which posed beautifully on a Tiger Lily.






The river is very popular with the fly fishermen as a catch and release must do destination. Consequently the ever grace-full casting fly fisherman can be found at almost every eddy and bend in the river. 




We hiked on to Wizard Falls Hatchery with its pools of fish large to small, the facility is a gift from the Civilian Conservation Corps. There is water to refill the canteen and restrooms here as well. The bridge here is where we crossed and headed back on the East side. There is a trail that continues to the headwaters here an in and back that adds about 6 miles to
the hike. 

Forget-Me-Nots (Myosotis Salvatica) a waterside plant.



Our return trip was equally enjoyable on the East bank, graced with plenty of sunshine, wildflowers and geese.

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Lily Fields in Camas, Wa

I can't say enough about the Lily Fields at Lacamas Park in Camas, Washington.


The moss covered basalt is dotted with oak and carpeted in the purple blanket of flowers
In fact the plant is sometimes called
 Indian Hyacinth,is actually Camassia
 and not a lily at all being more
 closely related to Agave and Yucca.







 Lacamas Park is 311 acres and sits in the City of Camas. Jennifer and I have biked , hiked and ran this park for years and is is a treat year round. One time of year is always the best and that is when the Lily Fields are blooming.



 We were up there Saturday morning April 30th, and they are just coming into bloom. That gives you 2-3 more weeks tops.


 The Lacamas park site via City of Camas lists 3.6+ miles of trails. I can tell you there are many more miles than 3.6. In any case the Lily fields are just East of Round Lake at the top of the hill.

The trails are well maintained and all loop around to somewhere. The park is well maintained and has trails to waterfalls, bridges, small streams and old trees. 
There is a map up in the right hand corner of the city website http://www.ci.camas.wa.us/parks/lacamas.htm


It is rough but can get you started. Last fall we watched big salmon spawning just upstream from the 3rd street trailhead.


I encourage everyone to get there. Run, bike or just stroll around and you will not be disappointed.








If you want a longer ride or run, consider two options: Across the street from the Everett Street main park entrance is a Moose Lodge. Right behind it is a 3.25 mile trail that skirts the lake. The mileage is one way to another trailhead on Goodwin Road.












Another option across from the 3rd Street trailhead and Southeast a block (behind the real estate office is a new trail that crosses the Washougal River and ends near Goot Park. It is about 1.5 miles long but if you go another mile on the road you can cross the Washougal River on the 3rd Avenue bridge. You can then pick your way back, mostly on trails along the river, then west on 3rd to the trailhead. This is a five mile loop.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Coyote Wall

We took advantage of the nice weather and took a drive up to Coyote Wall. It is located just east of Bingen in the Columbia River Gorge on the Washington side of the river. Parking is crowded along and just off the highway and it's obvious you will not be alone! This is a very popular mountain bike riding area and with a few hikers.












We walked East along the old roadbed with the 'wall' looming above us. We continued past the first turn off on the left and again past the second turn off and on about another eighth of a mile to a waterfall that has eroded the old roadbed.














Returning back to the last turn off we headed up and over a ridge to the stream from whence the waterfall had come. This area is called the Labyrinth.


 It is a beautiful climb up a small valley of wildflowers, oak trees and a wonderful stream cascading down one waterfall after another. Staying primarily to the right we eventually left the stream and head up a small grove of thickly spaced oaks and green grass. At the top we were greeted to one vista after another, each better than the last. To the east the Columbia River rolls along below us. To the west it meanders away with Mt Hood in the background. There are endless places for lunch here.

At the top we came to a T in the trail and opted to go West. Following the trail until we just could see the Burns Ranch about two hundred yards ahead, we took a right up a dirt single track up through the oak. after about fifty yards it comes out on the Burns Ranch driveway. Continuing on it west for fifty yards and there is a trail branching off west as the driveway goes north. Following it up over and around and after crossing a couple small seasonal streams we eventually come out in a big open grass prairie. On the west side of this is the edge of the magnificent Coyote Wall. We picked our way down from here following one many trails on the grassy slopes. Eventually we ended up on the old roadbed. This was an eight mile loop for us.


Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Kauai


Plantation Resort in southern Kauai

Jennifer and I went to Kauai to celebrate our twentieth anniversary. We chose Kauai based on its reputation for great hiking and adventures. One day we rented a kayak near the mouth of the Wailua River. After towing the thing down the street and around the corner to the boat ramp, we set off upstream. We decided to do this sans guided trip as it was half the cost. We did get a dry bag and a small cooler.


 After paddling upstream and into the wind fo about two miles we turned into a small side stream. We paddles up that for several hunderd yards and pulled up next to the 50-60 kayaks from guided trips on the shore.

We hiked in about a mile to Secret Falls. The hike included a pretty good stream crossing holding onto a rope and passing many tourists in guided groups. The guides are all barefoot and the people all move so slowly. Anyway the falls were beautifully adorned with about 100 tourist hikers.


Secret (not) Falls

We had lunch and headed back to our kayak. Returning to the Wailua River we continued upstream past the Fern Grotto (the only shore parking was taken by 2 kayaks). We went upstream about a half mile and found a ropeswing! About that we also witnessed a fish chasing a fish? or a frog or something seemingly above the surface of the water. Our paddle back included a stop at the grotto ( we tied off to the big dock and climbed up the tires) and a head wind. What a great all around workout.

trail above Ke`e Beach






Another day we drove up to Ke`e Beach. We then hiked the Kalalau trail 2 miles to Hanakapi`ai Beach. This is a well used barely maintained trail. It is very slippery throughout and gives you a great core workout.


 At Hanakapi`ai Beach we headed inland 2 miles to100'  Hanakapi`ai Falls. Half way up that trail we got rained on for about 10 minutes and I am sure that in that time more than an inch of rain fell. This part of the Island got 700+ inches of rain! I see how.  On the return trip the trail was swamped with red clay puddles. This was perhaps the most exhausting 8 miles I have hiked!




Our final long hike for the island was up at Alakai Swamp Trail in Koke`e State Park. The drive is long and the hike is as well but well worth it and all beautiful. Interstingly this swamp is the highest elevation swamp known in the world. The trail we would follow at least roughly followed the traditional native route for the natives to get to neighbors and relatives on the North coast.The trail begins down a ridgeline where there are spectacular views on one side of the Na Pali coast and the other side down the inland valleys of Koke`e State Park. It should be noted that these views are subject to cloud cover, a constant visitor to Kauai. We were fortunate indeed.

alot of hiking in Kauai comes with challenging muddy ascents and descents
 

So the trail is primitive, well used but primitive for about a mile. Then it turns into boardwlk of sorts...miles of it.
boardwalks






Interestingly there are several very short telephone poles scattered from one end of this hike to another, most falling down. These were installed to relay communications from the North coast during WW2. Eventually the trail delivers you to a small overlook where the views are stunning of the North coast. This is the Kilohana lookout. I couldn't help but speculate how rough the hike down from here would have been for the natives. It is a drop off.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Yosemite

Yosemite Valley with El Capitan on the left, Half Dome in the back right and Cathedral Rocks on the right.
Yosemite
is perhaps the most amazing place, overall that I have been yet. After bailing on a PCT hike because of the rainy forecast, Jennifer and I hit the road for some day hiking in Yosemite. We were fortunate to get a site at Crane Flats to make our base. We then headed down into the valley where we were way-layed by the bus system with a thousand stops!

We made it to the Yellowstone Falls trail head after 2 hours of comedic bus rides with transfers (less than a mile from where we parked). We scrambled a mile up the trail for the view but the impending darkness thwarted our plans for the full 7 mile hike.

At camp we decided to hike the valley floor hike of 13 miles to familiarize ourselves with the area. We had decided to pack light, no lunch just snacks, due to the easy nature of a trail that should go four hours max.....


Bridalveil Falls
Our hike began at the Pohono Bridge on the west end of Yosemite Valley. It followed the Merced River gently upstream through the forest past beautiful pools of the clear mountain stream. After a mile we came upon the motor tourist crowds pulled over at the view for the impressive 620 foot Bridalveil Falls.
We crossed the road just past it under the massive Cathedral Rocks. We paused to watch climbers on the Lower Cathedral Wall, a 600 foot wall. It was astonishing to see four climbers dwarfed by the enormity of the cliff face.

Lower Cathedral Rocks with four climbers pointed out.


LeConte Memorial Lodge
We walked a couple of miles away from the road under the massive walls of the valley and at one point came upon two big mule deer bucks
bedded down in the dark forest. They seemed unconcerned sitting thirty yards from us. Eventually we emerged back to civilization and visited the LeConte Memorial Lodge. LeConte was a friend of John Muir and co-founder with Muir of the Sierra Club. While the cute little lodge bears his name it was actually built for a wood carver known for his "beautiful and dainty souvenirs in California woods." 

After ice cream at Curry Village we cut across the campgrounds to the Royal Arches and taking the high trail on the North side of the Canyon were once again treated to the spectacle of climbers. It is addicting watching their efforts. At the Awahnee hotel we came out of the woods once again to see some more of the absolutely massive boulders that lie on the valley floor throughout the canyon. Easily thirty feet tall they dwarf everything but the immense canyon walls from whence they came.

Lower Yosemite Falls was a tourist mecca, being the easiest hike in the canyon (half mile round trip). Just past it at Camp Four we crossed the road to the meadow that was the most grand place on earth.

Valley floor meadow





Crossing the meadow brought us to swinging bridge and the banks of the Merced River lined with flowers. We followed it west and just past Sentinal Beach on the opposite shore we went for a swim. It was like jumping into a pool of ice. After our break we were very fortunate to come upon a Bear. It was golden brown and seemed quite small. It never saw us and wandered off into the forest.
At the El Capitan bridge we met a guy who films climbers. We had seen several groups on the 3000 foot wall and it is amazing how small they are. He had a telescope spotted on a group ascending the wall. If you find the biggest Douglas Fir in your area and imagine an ant on the side, that is what a climber is like on El Capitan.


El Capitan with inset drawn on it




Inset of climber on El Capitan
close up of climber in inset
You can barely make out the climber here as a dot. On the right is a closeup that brings it more in to scale. We learned that this was a solo climber and his pack below him attempting the "Mescalito" route on the southeast face. This sight was simply awe inspiring.
We came within twenty feet of two deer in the meadow near El Capitan Bridge. We slugged out the last of about a fifteen mile day with side trips and staggered back to camp.

Jennifer is dwarfed by a giant sequoia
 We decided to take it easier the next day as we both now had blisters. We headed South for Wawona and the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias. This is a challenge to even photograph because nothing seems to portray the enormity of the trees!                        This Cabin is two rooms and is indeed good sized although it seems tiny. We hiked a four mile loop that included the Grizzly Giant measuring 28' diameter and being somewhere between 2000 to 2700 years old. One of these trees contains as much lumber as one entire acre of Douglas fir forest in the Pacific Northwest.
After the grove we went down to the historic town of Wawona. The town is preserved as it was in the late 1800's complete with the original buildings and even the covered bridge.

Jennifer in contemplation atop Sentinal Dome

From Wawona we headed to climb Sentinal Dome. You can see it all from here. El Capitan, Half Dome, Cloud Rest, a 360 view from the top and found a cool brass map on a granite boulder that named 20 or 30 peaks surrounding it.
We left in time to catch sunset from Glacier Point.
In the morning we headed out before dawn for the trail head at the Happy Isles Bridge, determined to hike up to Half Dome. The hike is 17 miles round trip and includes a 5000' elevation climb and subsequent descent. We knew we would need to utilize all of the daylight available.


 At the trail head I pulled in to park next to a Lexus SUV. Strangely its flashers were on but there was no alarm going off and no one around. Then I noticed it's door frame had been peeled open by a bear. There in the gravel was a hat, a empty bag of chips and a pile of glass. Sadly there are Bear proof containers for free use all around this parking lot and the whole park.
We set out up the Merced River on the Mist Trail and climbed a thousand steps up past Vernal Falls, a 240' waterfall. In the morning dawn it was shaded and we knew the good pictures would  be in the afternoon. We kept moving past Emerald Pool and up many more steps beside 594' Nevada Falls. At the top is the wonderful Little Yosemite Valley at about 6100 ft elevation where we took a cold pizza lunch.


The final ridge to the saddle is a steep scramble up marble steps.

 Continuing our ascent we climbed to a ridge and then west up the backbone several hundred feet up steep small granite steps to the saddle below the final ascent cables.

 This is where we stopped. The final 400 feet are for people who are not absolutely phobic about heights. Imagine 2 cables running up the face with pieces of wood you climb to every 6 feet. As a side note, Jennifer wore a skirt hiking this day, a wonderful way to hike as it affords airiness that works well to keep one cool during long hard hikes. The Half Dome hike is certainly not the one you want to be wearing a skirt on!
Jennifer and I with the cables behind us



Vernal Falls

Bugs and I at Nevada Falls
























We drove to up Tuolumne Meadows the next morning. Along the way we past beautiful Tenaya Lake set among granite peaks and domes. We continued on to Lembert Dome where we hiked to the top.

 Actually Jennifer went to the top, I stopped just short. The views form up here are amazing from Mammoth Peak to Unicorn Peak and Ragged Peak, so much to see. We decided that we must come back here and backpack, not just day hike. From there we hiked down to Dog Lake and back. That evening we took in the sunset from the middle of the meadows after photographing the Tuolumne River in the evening light.



In the morning we hiked to Cathedral Lakes via the John Muir Trail. This hike took us past the towering and majestic Cathedral Peaks to the lakes. We lunched at the main lake and marveled at the surroundings.

 
We left Yosemite knowing we must come back and backpack. We drove out the Tioga Pass and made our way to South Lake Tahoe.