Friday, September 25, 2009

Wonderland Trail day 10

Day 10 we woke and headed for our climb of 2400 feet in the 4 miles back to Mowich Lake where we had parked our car. We had traveled roughly 100 miles, 28,000 feet of uphill and 28,000 feet of downhill,met many people, said amazing a zillion times and now our thought turned to the nearest Jack In The Box!

Wonderland Trail day 9

It got particularly cold last night as we ar about 6000 feet yet again. Putting on the soaking wet boots was the real challenge and was the last thing I did before I put on my pack. We realized right away that the ground had frost everywhere in the meadows around camp, it had gotten that cold.





We hiked down to North Puyallup River where we saw three goats up on the hillside.We rested here and got snacks before heading up to Golden Lakes.








After crossing the river we hiked up to Golden Lakes where we found a beautiful patrol cabin on a nice lake.


At any patch of sunlight you could find Jennifer soaking in the warmth.




After we left Golden Lakes we passed through Sunset Park. We met a ranger there who checked our pass and informed us the big downhill was right around the corner.Down we went for hours to South Mowich River Camp. Upon arrival we were delighted to be alone at camp ant have use of an old log shelter. With a roof , floor and three walls it was paradise.

Wonderland Trail day 8

We got up an hour early at 5 and as we were breaking camp it began to rain. Within 30 minutes we were all soaked. The trail through the alpine meadows was flooded and our exposure left ud drenched. We saw a deer within 30 minutes of camp and shortly thereafter passed a ranger patrol cabin in a meadow of an area called Indian Henry's Hunting Ground.

We hiked down 2000 feet over the next 3 miles to our second suspension bridge crossing Tahoma Creek.Then we turned back uphill for 3 miles to climb the 2000 feet back.













We hiked up next to the Tahoma Glacier for the next couple of hours in driving rain and howling wind. Warmth became a big issue. If we stopped hiking to catch our breath we immediately got very very very cold as opposed to the very cold we could maintain if we kept moving. We crested at Emerald Ridge where we looked down to see 4 white goats at the foot of the glacier in the valley below. We decided to pitch a lunch tent for warmth and food. We pitched the two man Big Agnes Seedhouse and all climbed inside literally creating large puddles to sit in. We ate and huddles and after 30 minutes resumed our hike. As the rain slowly subsided, we descended 2000 feet to cross the South Puyallup River and back up 2000 feet to our camp at Klapache Park. We passed beautiful Saint Andrew's Lake and the skys parted enough to see Rainer for the first time all day. At camp we filtered water from a nearby mudhole Aurora Lake.

Wonderland Trail day 7

We left our nice little camp and hiked down Paradise Creek to its confluence with the Nisqually River where we crossed with a great view of the south side of Mt Ranier. We came across a wooden pipe running along the trail. It was reinforced by small steel rings every inch and was about 18" diameter. We found a hole in it and upon inspection found it empty. It used to carry water to an electric generator. After passing Carter Falls we headed for Longmire. We hoped to loose some garbage and maybe send a few things home to lighten our load for the tough stretch of hiking ahead
. At Longmire we found beautiful buildings, a post office that could not mail more than 2 pounds and most importantly an inn with a great breakfast.

We ate every scrap of food they brought to the table. After breakfast we hiked up to Kautz creek where we took the afternoon off in the sun and sand before hiking the long steep climb up to our camp at Devil's Dream.





When we arrived at Devil's Dream we realized we needed to hike another 1/2 mile for water. Jennifer continued uphill to some beautiful alpine lakes for camp water. Knowing the forcast was for rain we set up a lightweight lean-too I had been packing for a morning 'dry' space while we packed up. Tommorrow would be the longest mileage at 13+ as well as the largest ascent/descent at 4100 ft each. This we went to sleep with as well as the prospect for rain.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Wonderland Trail day 6

Nickle Creek Camp proved to be the worst camp all agreed. it was very far from the creek for water and it was tiny. We got up and hit the trail to find yet some more downhill that would take us across the highway to Stevens Canyon. We followed the creek up all day past several waterfalls and a couple of trail washouts. This is one of those streams you would like to see at spring runoff. The place is decimated and yet at this time of year you could jump across the stream.
We took lunch at Martha Falls where there was a sign at the bridge...no horses, laughable because it was a small log across a big stream.
We finally made it to Reflection Lake after passing Louise Lake. We got some good photos and hung out there awhile. Lance took pictures for the tourists. It was comedy to see people drive up, roll down their window, take pictures and drive off.
We made camp at Paradise Camp which we all loved. there were sawed planks of old trees that made nice tables.

Wonderland Trail day 5

Sunrise was gorgeous at Summerland. I was fortunate in that I was sharing it with Jennifer and her mother Annie.



Each night we hang anything 'smellable' in bags from these park provided 'bear poles'. We retrieve them in the morning first thing so we can make oatmeal and coffee.









After leaving camp we climbed up a beautiful alpine valley. after crossing a stream above a large waterfall we began our ascent to the highest place on our hike.


















At 6800 feet we could see the Panhandle Gap before us.






After we passed over the pass we saw below us the broad valleys of Ohanapacosh Park. On a hill near the trail we would take down there were 6 white mountain goats. Excitedly we pushed on to get near them for photos.
After a climb to the snowfields below Ohanapecosh Glacier we were treated to a breathtaking sight. The Ohanepecosh Glaciers retreat this late in summer left dozens of waterfalls, some very large, cascading down into Indian Bar valley below. We were on a high ridge above it all and for the hundreth time perhaps that day alone we were stunned at the magnificence.













With Indian Bar 1700 feet below us we took to the longest set of stairs any of could imagine. We guessed there must have been 2000 steps and it tested our knees. At Indian Bar some workers were reroofing an old stone shelter. We had lunch there and soaked our feet in the icy water. We had a 900 foot climb out of here before our 4 hour descent to camp.



Just before we made the top of the climb we realized we needed to push hard so we would not have to hike at night. About 50 yards after the pow wow another black bear ran out about 30 feet below Jennifer. It ran downhill and grazed on berries.

As we cleared the top we immediately began hearing elk bugling. It was all as Tom Murray had said. We saw Marmots atop Ohanapecosh Park, bears in Frying Pan and above Indian Bar, goats from the Panhandle Gap and now the elk. We silently walked along Cowlitz ridge until Jennifer, who was in the lead, caught sight of a bull elk with a huge rack 15 feet away. He crashed off next to us all not to be seen again. The next 3 hours was a march down to Nickle Creek Camp. We arrived just before dark.







Wonderland Trail day 4

Tuesday morning we headed downhill 2000 feet over 2.5 miles to White River. We were able to wash some clothes in the campground sinks and clean up a bit to boot...warm water Yeah! We met a volunteer ranger named Tom Murray. Tom was positively in love with the east side of this mountain that we are on. He went on to tell us of the good conditions of the trail, the good weather forecast and that if everything lined up just right...we might even see a bear as one had been seen recently on Frying Pan Creek. He also went on to tell us of goats up past Panhandle Gap, Marmots on the way to Indian Bar and Elk bugling on the Cowlitz Divide.










We crossed the river on a big log bridge, one of about 200 we would cross in the 10 days.

We hiked up Frying Pan Creek for the early afternoon. We passed some people who saw a bear up past 'the bridge'. At the bridge we took an exhaustion break. We spoke with several hikers who were coming down from their dayhike, as Fryingpan Creek has a road access trailhead. All of them had heard of the bear sighting but no one else had seen it in the long meadow above the bridge. One elderly woman, a solo hiker who looked a bit like a librarian, did mention that she had seen bears in the past and recomended being firm and telling them 'get off the trail'.











We proceeded to cross the bridge and on uphill through the meadow of about 1/2 mile.




The huckleberries (the primary food for the bears at this time of year) were chest high throughout the meadow and they were ripe and thick as they would be our entire trip at higher elevations. We saw several large piles of bear crap prompting a discussion as to whether bears crap in the woods or just on the trail. At the end of the meadow, having seen no bear, Jennifer and I stepped aside to gaze up the Frying Pan Creek valley for one last shot at maybe seeing a bear but alas it was not to be. Resigned to the hillclimb of about 1000 feet and the switchbacks before us I turned and looked up the trail. I was going to ask if everyone was ready for this when Lance said very firmly BEAR...Bear...Bear. I looked at him and he was looking over my shoulder. I turned and a black bear was sauntering directly at me about ten feet away. I took several steps back all the while chanting as firmly as I could muster 'get off the trail'. After several steps I realized I had passed Jennifer. She had gone National Geographic photographer as held her ground.






The bear paused and looked right at me for a second or two and headed up the trail we would take only to be run off the trail by hikers coming down. Lance had not heard the conversation with the elderly woman so he thought I was telling everyone to get off the trail! very funny.

Full of adrenaline we all but ran up the hill to Sumerland Camp, an absolutely beautiful campsite, sheltered from the wind by trees and surrounded by views.